An adventure in roughstuffing - Bikepacking from Inverness to Glasgow

Cycling and hostels are a wonderful combination that has proven successful since many years now. I am the author of ‘Great British Gravel Rides’, a book that features 25 inspiring people who share their favourite off-road routes across Britain. A number of those routes, especially the eleven routes in Scotland, are close to hostels. Since 2017 I also run Bikepacking Scotland, a website that features routes that take you off the beaten track to discover Scotland on two wheels.

When I was asked by Scottish Hostels to pick three hostels and combine them with a nice route, I was initially planning to follow the Badger Divide, a great bikepacking route connecting Inverness and Glasgow. Having just published a book about gravel cycling, it made sense to grab the bike I used for researching the book, a Kinesis Tripster AT. But then I had a change of mind, and decided for a bike that was older than me, a 1970s Claud Butler, singlespeed with 28mm tyres and rim brakes. 

I had always been inspired by the many women and men who took their bikes off-road since the mid 1950s, known as the Rough Stuff Fellowship, and choosing this bike would give me some idea of what their trips, often from hostel to hostel, would have felt like. I didn’t have gears, suspension or really wide tyres, neither would I have the braking power of modern disc brakes. 

So how did my adventure go? You can find a detailed account in this article here on the Cyclingtips website. And if you are interested in more route inspiration, you can buy a signed copy of my book for £25 here. You can find my route below and more detailed tips to guide your own adventure. Happy cycling! 

Day 1 - Black Isle Hostel, Inverness to Saddle Mountain Hostel, Invergarry

Where I stopped:

• The teapot collection at Cannich Stores & Post Office
• Plodda Falls & the ruins of Guisachan House
• The Caledonian Canal from Fort Augustus to Aberchalder
• Aberchalder Swing Bridge & Bridge of Oich

Where I fuelled up:

• Black Isle Bar & Rooms, Inverness (dinner)
• Corner on the Square, Beauly (breakfast)
• Londis Supermarket, Fort Augustus (cake and coffee)
• Invergarry Hotel, Invergarry (dinner)

Day 2 - Saddle Mountain Hostel, Invergarry to Tomrannoch Hostel, Lochearnhead

Where I stopped:

• Laggan Avenue
• Commando Memorial 
• Black Wood of Rannoch
• Loch Lyon
• Falls of Dochart
• Glen Ogle Viaduct

Where I fuelled up:

• Well of the Seven Heads Coffee & Takeaway, nr. Spean Bridge (not this time, but on another trip, recommended)
• Spar, Speanbridge
• Glenlyon Tearoom, Bridge of Balgie
• Coop, Killin

Day 3 - Tomrannoch Hostel, Lochearnhead to Glasgow Queen Street Station 

Where I stopped:

• Cultybraggan Camp
• Loch Drunkie
• Gravelfoyle (signposted gravel trails from Aberfoyle)
• Glasgow Corporation Water Works

Where I fuelled up:

• Courtyard Coffee House, Callander
• Coop, Aberfolye
• Drymen Bakery & Deli, Drymen

More practical advice:

Getting there:

• Scotrail & LNER train service serve Inverness. If you want to take your bike, you need to make a reservation in advance, and be prepared to be flexible, as spaces are limited. Part of the route is also by train, but can be done by bike as well, but be prepared to hike your bike. While you normally need a reservation for the bit between Spean Bridge and Corrour, chances are good that you will be allowed on the train for a few stations. You can buy a ticket on the train as well. 
• Alternatively you can hire a bike. Ticket to Ride in Inverness has good quality touring and mountain bikes, as well as e-Bikes which are suitable for the route. If hiring a bike, they can arrange a pick up as well. 

Best time to travel:

• You have to choose between long daylight hours and warmer temperatures in summer, where you will encounter midges, or shorter and colder, but midge-free days in the shoulder seasons spring and autumn. Unless you are very experienced, this route is not suitable for winter riding, as there is a good chance of snow on the higher sections.

Five things to do other than cycling the route:

• Glen Affric is superb for walking, and one of the most scenic places in Scotland for that. 
• The River Garry, Caledonian Canal, Loch Oich and Loch Lochy offer fabulous opportunities for anything in canoes or kayaks. Laggan Avenue is an amazing location for an early morning canoe trip.
• Try wakeboarding at Loch Earn
• Comrie Croft and Gravelfoyle are best if you want man-made and signposted off-road trails
• Try one of the lochs for wild swimming - you’ll be amazed by the views from Loch Ossian (but please follow all advice on wild swimming)